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for European luxury brands from Fendi to Chloé, including four Lanvin shows, and appeared in major advertising campaigns for Marc Jacobs, Coach and H&M. Even Victoria’s Secret, once infamous for its one-dimensional beauty standards, has hired Elsesser. As society shifts and fashion emerges “from the Official Kim Kardashian Dolce And Gabbana Shirt in contrast I will get this dark ages” when larger models struggled for jobs and equal pay, demand for plus-size women is surging, says Next Models agent Becca Thorpe. So too are the rates they can command. “Clients are paying equal or above what they’re paying for traditional models to get access to (bigger models),” adds Cast Partner’s casting director, Treanna Lawrence. Australian Fashion Week hosts its first ever plus-size runway show Plus-size models — typically defined as above a size 4 in high fashion and above a size 12 in the mass market — are a lucrative business. “Once agencies saw there’s a real route to success for a girl like Paloma, they started signing more,” says stylist Carlos Nazario. “And when brands saw the engagement and attention they receive on the runway and in campaigns, they wanted a piece of the pie as well.” But Elsesser’s rise wasn’t handed to her. If she has been the beneficiary of wider social currents, she has also been a catalyst, pushing forward and making space for others. “I think a lot of her modeling has been confronting the industry,” says DM Casting’s Samuel Ellis Scheinman. The face of change Elsesser arrived on the scene at a time of political turmoil. In the United States, a long-simmering culture war began to boil over after Donald Trump became president and George Floyd
was killed by police, fueling Black Lives Matter. Wider calls were, simultaneously, being made for “body positivity,” a movement for greater acceptance of all bodies, regardless of size, shape, skin color, gender and ability. As society shifted, so did fashion. In 2017, British Vogue hired the Official Kim Kardashian Dolce And Gabbana Shirt in contrast I will get this Black stylist and journalist Edward Enninful as its editor-in chief. In 2018, Louis Vuitton hired African American designer Virgil Abloh as artistic director of menswear. Fashion runways and magazines began featuring a wider cast of characters. “The industry in 2017, 2018, 2019 began offering a counter-proposal to the American political system at the time,” says Scheinman. “I think we started to understand that it has to be a radical message in the casting.” That this was good marketing didn’t hurt. Paloma Elsesser and Bella Hadid backstage at a Savage x Fenty show in 2019. Credit: Ilya S. Savenok/Getty/Savage X Fenty In 2016, though she had been hired to front the launch of Pat McGrath’s beauty venture, Elsesser still had trouble getting runway jobs for top fashion brands. Things began to pick up the following year after she walked for artsy labels like Eckhaus Latta. By 2018, she was cast alongside Bella and Gigi Hadid for the launch of Rihanna’s Fenty x Savage lingerie line. But it wasn’t until the spring of 2020 that she was hired by luxury brands like Alexander McQueen, Lanvin and Fendi. That season was a watershed for plus-size casting. A week after Fendi featured plus-size models on the runway for the first time, Jill Kortleve became the first plus-size woman to walk for Chanel since Crystal Renn 10 years before. From late 2018 to early 2022, the number of brands casting plus-size models for their shows shot up 374%, according to data provided by Tagwalk, a company that tracks runway trends. The shift was a boon for in-demand Elsesser, whose presence on the runway shot up more than 830% over the same period, said Tagwalk. In the last two seasons, she has walked more high fashion shows than any other plus-size
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